ПАТАГОНИЯ


 
Я начинаю писать последние записки этого цикла, записки о Патагонии.
 
Патагония — большая, разнообразная и очень красивая. Величественные Анды (или Кордильеры, звучит гораздо романтичнее), фиорды, пустыня, кондоры и орлы — если вы молоды и полны азарта, там замечательно постранствовать, походить с рюкзаком.
 

 
Мне всегда нравились араукарии, ещё в детстве, т. е. сначала, конечно же, не сами деревья, их я не видела, а их название. Произнесите вслух слово «араукария» и послушайте, как оно раскатывается, как звучит. Деревья я увидела гораздо позже и не разочаровалась. На моей фотографии просто крошка, а в Патагонии есть места, где растут гигантские араукарии, их высота достигает 40 м.
 
Не могу удержаться, уж очень хочется рассказать одну историю. По-английски араукарии часто называют «monkey puzzle tree». Это можно грубо перевести как «головоломка для обезьян». Оказывается, происхождение этого названия следующее. В 19 веке араукарию начали культивировать в Англии. Гордый владелец демонстрировал дерево группе друзей, когда кто-то произнес «»it would puzzle a monkey to climb that», «даже обезьяна будет озадачена тем, как взобраться на это дерево». Название привилось. Кстати, во Франции араукарию называют «отчаяние обезьян», «monkeys’ despair».
 

 
Я понимаю обезьян, на их месте я бы тоже была озадачена.
 
В моей жизни были Карпаты, Кавказ и Фанские горы, но Патагонии с огромным рюкзаком за спиной в ней уже не будет. Я этих гигантов уже не увижу, а вы, если можете, собирайте рюкзак и вперёд. Но я ни в коем случае не жалуюсь: два визита дали мне возможность получить о Патагонии пусть поверхностное, но все же представление.
 
Кстати, я только в последней поездке узнала этимологию слова Патагония. Оказывается, это означает что-то вроде «большая нога». Название это дал Патагонии Магеллан, увидев на земле человеческие следы, существенно бОльшие, чем следы европейцев. По этому поводу существуют разные теории. По одной из них, в то время существовало племя индейцев, чей средний рост был 1м 80см при среднем росте испанцев в 16 веке 1м 55см. По второй теории, индейцы носили на ногах звериные шкуры, отсюда и огромные следы.
 
Территория Патагонии огромна, более миллиона километров при населении в 2 млн. При низкой плотности населения города в Патагонии есть, и в двух из них я побывала. Мы заплывали в два места: с аргентинской стороны в Пуэрто-Мадрин и с чилийской стороны в Пунта-Аренас, причем в Пуэрто-Мадрин только в 2010.
 

 
Если плыть в тех краях в районе Нового года, киты вам, скорее всего, попадутся, они в это время плывут в Антарктику поохотиться и подкормиться. Давайте попрощаемся с орками, я их снимала в Атлантическом океане недалеко от Пуэрто-Мадрин.
 
Про Пуерто-Мадрин мне особенно нечего вам рассказать, разве что сообщить вам, что там прекрасные пляжи. Зато рядом кипит бурная жизнь животных, и если бы я попала туда еще раз и в правильный сезон, я обязательно поехала бы встретиться с морскими слонами, их в моем личном фото-зоопарке еще нет.
 

 
Это необычное место недалеко от Пуэрто-Мадрин называется Пунто-Лома.
 

 
Это морской заповедник: едешь туда по полупустыне и приезжаешь на пляж, который мирно делят морские львы и бакланы.
 

 
У морских львов лежбище внизу, у воды. Их очень много, и живут они там круглый год. Они лают, рычат, а самцы не дают конкурентам подходить к своим гаремам.
 

 
Сразу видно, кто здесь настоящий мужчина — большой, мускулистый и все время начеку.
 

 
Повыше, на камнях, разместилось несчетное множество птиц. Это все те же бакланы или магелланские кормораны. Попрощаемся с ними и с морскими львами, мы их в этой поездке больше не увидим.
 

 
В этот же день мы заезжали на ферму (нет, все-таки эстансия звучит гораздо лучше), где я впервые в жизни увидела стрижку овец.
 

 
Овцы были замечательные, чистенькие, очень мохнатые, теплые и мягкие на ощупь.
 

 
Они не плакали, когда их стригли, но их, таких покорных и таких голеньких, все равно было очень жалко.
 

 
А вот это — гуаноко, очень симпатичная рыженькая представительница рода лам. Их осталось немного, и в Чили они уже охраняются государством.
 

 
Город Пунта-Аренас (название переводится как «Песчаный Мыс») расположен на северном берегу Магелланова пролива. Его еще называют городом красных крыш, что вполне обосновано.
 

 
Посмотрите на город сверху, он отсюда смотрится живописнее всего. Вдали виден наш корабль.
 
Когда-то 2/3 населения города составляли заключенные.
 

 
Эта фотография сделана в музее под открытым небом.
 

 
Сейчас это современный город, в котором есть университет, интересные музеи и международный аэропорт.
 
В Патагонии процветают рыболовство и сельское хозяйство, рядом добывают нефть и уголь, ну и, конечно, большую роль в экономике играет туризм.
 
Наша круизная компания именно из Пунта-Аренас предлагала слетать на самолете в Антарктиду, на материк. Очень заманчиво и очень, очень дорого. Если вы готовы заплатить $7,000 за двоих за однодневную экскурсию, слетайте и потом покажите мне фотографии, мне очень интересно как там, на материке.
 
Этнически в Пунта-Аренас кого только нет, но почему-то около 50% населения составляют потомки иммигрантов из Хорватии.
 

 
Вот памятник Магеллану в центре Пунта-Аренас. Так он выглядел в 2010 году.
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
В 2020 мы были там вскоре после больших беспорядков, прокатившихся по всей стране. Положа руку на сердце, Магеллан немало сделал для этих мест, но бунтующие студенты его не уважают и оскверняют его памятники. Как видите, для них это уже не памятник великому мореплавателю, а монумент геноцида.
 

 
Там есть также очень интересное кладбище, чем-то напомнившее мне знаменитое кладбище Реколета в Буэнос-Айресе.
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Покойников детки тоже не пощадили: склепы залиты красной краской, символизирующей кровь.
 
Раз уж мы разговорились о детках и революциях, я рискну ступить на очень зыбкую почву и немножко рассказать о Пиночете. Поверьте мне, я знаю все плохое, что он сделал, и мне это не нравится. Я просто, чтобы немножко уравновесить чашу весов и объяснить, что именно привело его к власти, расскажу о двух встречах с чилийцами, которые говорили о Пиночете не совсем так, как принято.
 
Первый раз мы с мужем прилетели в Чили в далеком 1992 году. Советскими гражданами мы тогда не были уже, а американскими не были еще –- советское гражданство у нас отобрали при выезде, а американского гражданства надо было ждать 5 лет. Это означает, что никаких паспортов у нас не было вообще, а путешествовали мы с синенькими книжечками, которые громко назывались «Refugee traveling document”, т. е. документ, с которым может путешествовать беженец и на котором крупными буквами было написано, что это не паспорт.
 
По всей видимости, в Сантъяго с такими документами до нас никто никогда не прилетал; мы были первыми и, возможно, последними. Озадаченные чилийские пограничники посадили нас под замок. Мой муж всегда говорит, что нас арестовали, а я — что задержали, по-моему, это звучит гораздо приятнее. Сразу скажу, что Пиночет к нашему задержанию не имеет никакого отношения, просто мне захотелось рассказать о наших приключениях.
 
Арест (или задержание) длился всего несколько часов, в Чили мы прорвались, и в субботу, решив взглянуть на чилийских евреев, направили свои стопы в ближайшую синагогу. Чилийские евреи нам очень понравились: оказалось, что южноамериканский темперамент идет евреям на пользу. Нас обнимали, возили по городу, согревали и информировали. И вот тут-то мы наконец-то подходим к Пиночету.
 

 
Давайте, перед тем как писать и читать о Пиночете, мы с вами расслабимся. Вот вам для этого патагонские цветы.
 
Оказалось, что у наших новых друзей еврейский папа в далеком двадцатом году удачно убежал от большевиков. В Чили им жилось совсем неплохо, пока к власти в 1970 году не пришел Сальвадор Альенде. Альенде был первым марксистом, избранным в демократической стране демократическим путем. Называл он себя демократическим социалистом. Звучит знакомо? Вот именно.
 
А дальше все пошло стандартным путем: было много замечательных социальных реформ, многое стало бесплатно, 35% налогоплатеьщиков перестали платить налоги, что всегда приятно. Перераспределение богатств шло полным ходом, и все было бы прекрасно, вот только деньги быстро кончились, и даже помощь Советского Союза спасти обваливающуюся экономику не могла. Начались забастовки, расовые отношения обострились, короче, страна летела и почти прилетела именно туда, куда позднее скатилась богатая Венесуэла и, увы, далеко не она одна. Мудрый папа, насмотревшийся на большевиков, сказал своим сыновьям: все, детки, знакомая картина, складывайте чемоданы, пора бежать опять.
 
Продолжение вы знаете: произошел военный переворот, к власти пришел генерал Пиночет. Альенде застрелился из подаренного ему Фиделем Кастро автомата. Начались репрессии, погибли люди. Со временем страна вернулась в капиталистическое русло, экономика быстро наладилась, волнения прекратились, и дети мудрого папы до сих пор живут в самой процветающей и безопасной стране Южной Америки, в Чили.
 
Я вспомнила эту историю в чилийской Патагонии только потому, что о тех временах вдруг сам заговорил совершенно замечательный гид, профессор местного университета, образованный и интересный человек, коренной патагонец и большой энтузиаст, чья экскурсия длилась по крайней мере на час дольше оговоренного времени. Он вдруг сказал: «Я ни в коем случае не консерватор, я центрист, многое в то время было не однозначно, но страна при Альенде летела в тартарары, уже достигла самого низа, и Пиночет ее спас». Это так, информация к размышлению, причем сейчас в Америке весьма своевременная, дай Бог, чтобы и ее не пришлось спасать.
 
Давайте, чтобы меня не побили камнями, я еще раз напишу, что я против военных переворотов и военного положения. Мораль же моей истории в том, что не надо приводить к власти коммунистов, даже если они хорошо маскируются. За этим обязательно следует экономический развал страны, a затем диктатура: диктатура либо пролетариата, либо военных, но следует, потому что, когда летит экономика, следом за ней летит все остальное. Вот как бы еще объяснить это нашим детям и внукам, да и не только им. А то я последнее время начинаю себя чувствовать, как тот еврейский папа — я убежала из Советского Союза, а он догоняет меня в Америке.
 
А теперь вернемся к тому, что не вызывает противоречий, что нравится всем, потому что не может не нравиться.
 

 
В нашем первом плавании наши лекторы говорили о том, как много альбатросов погибает, запутавшись в рыболовных сетях. Я очень рада сообщить, что новые законы и принятые очень простые меры, отпугивающие альбатросов от сетей, привели к тому, что чернобровые альбатросы с 2013 года перестали относиться к вымирающим видам и прекрасно размножаются. Давайте попрощаемся с ними, и желаю себе и вам новых встреч с ними и с их гигантскими братьями, странствующими альбатросами.
 

 
В Пунта-Аренас мы прощались с пингвинами.
 

 
Вот они, магелланские пингвины на острове Магдалены на берегу Магелланова пролива.
 

 
Они часто ходят парами, такие трогательные, такие неразлучные.
 

 
На этом снимке птичка ловит рыбку.
 

 
Магеллановы пингвины гораздо меньше ростом, чем королевские пингвины, и тоже очень доверчивые. Как приятно быть среди животных, которых люди никогда не обижали.
 

 
Все, как это ни грустно, пришла пора проститься и с пингвинами. Выплывая из Патагонии, я сказала мужу:»Слабо через 10 лет еще раз сплавать в Антарктику»? С моей стороны это очень оптимистично, но мечтать полезно для здоровья.
 
Ну вот, пожалуй, и все. У меня есть хорошие фотографии больших городов из этих поездок. О Буэнос-Айресе я уже писала, может быть, я когда-нибудь напишу о Сантъяго, о Вальпараисо и Винья-дель-Мар, о Монтевидео, но сейчас я хочу на этом поставить точку. Пусть эти заметки будут не о городах, а об айсбергах, о синих льдах, о птицах, о маленьких и больших пингвинах, обо всем том, что создано не людьми, а чем-то высшим, как, впрочем, и мы с вами.
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Мара Мордухович, Энн Арбор, January 2010 – January 2020
Copyright @ Margaret Mordukhovich, www.maratravelblog.com

5 комментариев

  1. Рая Кацман
    Фев 24, 2020

    Какое удовольствие читать твои заметки, Марочка, большое спасибо!

    • Woland Tech
      Фев 24, 2020

      Спасибо, очень рада!

  2. Woland Tech
    Фев 24, 2020

    Спасибо, рада, что понравилось.

  3. Michael
    Фев 25, 2020

    Как всегда — блеск!!!

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